Building a custom car audio system is very rewarding. When done right your install will have just the right amount of bass, silky smooth mids and nice crisp highs. But what does it take? In this video we walk through the entire car audio project process, from determining a goal and coming up with a plan, to installing and tuning.
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Here at Car Audio Fabrication I teach you how to Master Car Audio in an effort to Design, Build, and Install your ideal car audio system. Whether you are a hardcore basshead or a HiFi focused audiophile I would love to have you subscribe and join our community!
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--FULL VIDEO SERIES--
Simple Door Pods [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/jPpKGB
Custom Sub Box [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/bzZPwl
Underseat Fiberglass Sub Box [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/OBbUwH
Fiberglass Door Pods [VIDEO] Series: http://goo.gl/oAdrx1
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0
Car Audio Fabrication – Master Car Audio – Design, Build, Install
Hi,i'm currently using a 4channel amp for my subwoofer and front speaker..the problem now is everytime I turn my engine on,a loud buzzing current runs through the speaker and the humming also heard when im press the gas..got any ideas how to remove those noises?
Hey, can you help me to find an answer for my question? I would really appreciate it. I have installed polk db 6502 components in my front doors oh Honda Jazz. Is there any way i can add a third mid range speakers to the current 2 way set up without replacing the entire system with another 3 way system. Is it possible? if yes, how? thanks!
This is all too much for me. I need someone to accomplish the install for $300 or less out the door (Stereo, speakers, wiring harness, antennae kit). I have a 2014 Smart Fortwo hatchback, and the stock system sounds dreadful. Passenger speaker continues to "go out", and they sound "tinny" when both work. I'm just looking to have a nice sound that's clean. Don't need to blow the doors off someone else's car. I went to Audi Express, in Las Vegas, and they gave me a quote of $270 (JVC KD-PKR780BT car stereo package including two 6.5" speakers) for installation and the system out the door. I provided a down of $80 only for them to call me later, and give me phoney baloney about needing extra time to remove door panels involving much labor and "other parts" necessary for install (bait-n-switch). Price pushed to $540! I jammed back like Speedy Gonzales and demanded a refund of my deposit. I prefer having a warranty and am not keen on self install. Do I have to live with a crappy factory sound for the life of my vehicle?
Sando-Metal you’re not going to get anywhere for $300 and you broke the #1 rule... never go to audioexpress! They don’t know what they are doing and will fuck your shit up. For $300 I would suggest some cheap aftermarket coaxiles from Best Buy and a cheap headunit. If you have anything left over in your budget then use it to sound deaden the doors. But honestly with only $300 it might not sound much different than your stock system
What's the best to do 5.1 surround sound. If you could do a video sometime on it would be nice . How to do this without a touchscreen CD player . I like the standard single din for volume and cd/dvd . Here is my car https://youtu.be/SDao-2zFnJQ I have 2 JL W6 in the back with a ported box. Focal surrounds , Alpine amps 600 and 1200 watts , Im adding a DSP and wondering what's the best setup for my car .. 91 integra , tuned with a Vtec ;) only 125k orig mi . The box is so big in the trunk the subs have to be facing towards the front. Would it be better to have the sealed box and turn the subs towards the back to get deeper louder bass?
it's funny, because i wanted to do something about my stéréo, but didn't know where to start, so i watch your video, and you answerd EXACLTY all of the question a had. again i thought about doing something simple at first to learn the basics, and you are saying EXACTLY THAT! you are a very good teacher!
First system I ever installed was 2 1100 watt alpine amps running 2 type r’s in a custom box built by me in my buddy’s Mazda lol I always go for tier 2/3 sub/amp speakers/amp me and my pack of buddy’s have the highest performance systems in town lol
tl;dr Pioneer/Alpine HU, Focal door speakers, JL W7 Sub(s), Rockford/Alpine/JL/HiFonics 5-channel Amplifier or two amp setup (mono block & 4 channel), Crossover, Digital Signal Processor (DSP), Ported or Non-Ported Sub Box with proper Cubic Foot of Air space for your subs, Big-3 Upgrade, 0/1-4 AWG Amp Wiring Kit, Amp Remote level control call, Dynamat or other sound treatment >>>> INSTALL >>>> TUNE>>>>>>PROFIT
please help me with this? if you can I am about to buy a system for my Mitsubishi Pajero 94: these are the standard size
Front: 4", 6-3/4"
Rear: 6" x 9"
Front door: 6-3/4"
Rear side panel: 6" x 9"
Looking at your video, I think I will need an active crossover as the tweeters are located on the dash, I don't want to put in a sub (As I don't want a box in the back) but I would like the deep sound, I am planning to use 3 ways in the front and rear doors and rear area, and two way on the dash. I would like to use an amp to drive everything. I would like lots of top end sound, but i need a nice bottem end sound too. as I lesson to mainly Reggae, Soca, jazz, R&B and blues. Are there any special ways to set this up? and being in the Caribbean at times I can turn this up, however, when driving I would like to play this low with a nice rumble. I would even like to just sit in the Mitsubishi Pajero on the beach or in the mountains and listen to music with a nice clean sound.
Any ideas, how to set this up? also, the vehicle is diesel so I think I might out all the seats and put in installation on the floor, even though I don't have a system in mine, I am thinking of using alpine as past experience tells me I will not get amp noise
Yo im about to get my first car and i dont know shit about car audio but i really want to make that my first upgrade because thats what ill get the most use out of ( i dont want just really high bass i love hearing all parts of the music ) where could i go to learn everything i need to know ( id prefer it not to be different video's or articles ect. id rather get it all in one go cause i have no clue what i even need to know) thanks in advance
+CarAudioFabrication you mentioned a possible need to upgrade the electrical system to match the sub and amp. I was given a 12" subwoofer for my compact car (2005 Chevy Cobalt), can I make a larger sub like this sound good without needing to upgrade the electrical system for my relatively small car? I haven't seen the sub in-person yet I just know it's 12".
I want to put together something for sure... I'd like DSP so i can do time alignment, phase, and graphic EQ adjustments (custom presets obviously not some "rock n roll" preset).
My next thing worth noting is i want my sub to only cover 25-110hz. I don't like hearing subs go above 110.... so I would love to get a good speaker to cover the next range.
I'm a professional live sound engineer so the systems we use are always 4 way. a Mono sub doing 20-100 and then a 3 way line array. I don't think a 4 way system is appropriate maybe in a car but I do like an overall balanced sound with a tad bit more shimmer at around 12khz and bass that is solid when listening to something like a rock song or metal but nothing CRAZY - although I want to be able to go into crazy mode if i feel like it. I'd love some product recommendations if anyone has any. I'm driving a 2017 Toyota 86.
When you mention the comparison of a great install with average equipment vs a poor install with great equipment what exactly do you mean by the term 'install'? The quality/routing of the wiring or something else? Also your pop up link to the crossover/beaming sound quality video never showed up in this video
You seriously need to do a video on old school amp sound quality vs new. I have ran Eclipse since 2003 and am currently now running a Pioneer DEH-80PRS because I need the USB access to play WAV files (got tired of CD"s flying around my car) - that is mainly the only reason. I still use an Eclipse Amp. And the old school MB Quart QSD 6.5's and Boston Rally's. Not interested in 95 percent of the new stuff that's out there.
I have a 2017 Mini Countryman with a stock stereo system. the head unit is integral to the cars functionality so I've elected to use a Match plug n play amp and replace the speakers with focal speakers that also replace exsisting speaker openings which are 3 inch in all four doors and two 8 inch underseat subwoofers. I've also added a powered sub for the back for more low end. The match amp is also a DSP so with some assistance from manufacture rep I've set the crossover points based on his recommendation with my speakers in mind. Two problems I'm dealing with is there's not enough warmth in the sound. Meaning a lot of highs and hi mids and low lows, like it's lacking mid lows and punch from the snare and a punchy kick drum and bass guitar. I'm trying my best not to crave the car up and I'm wondering if I should look to try and substitute the underseat subs with a 6.5 in mid bass speaker? Also I'm still having issues with the sub in the back hitting late. Meaning the underseat subs are hitting at the right time but the sub is later and not sure how to fix that. do you have some ideas?
Hey .I have a kenwood head unit and enjoy superb music with jbl speaker. But I wanna change my head unit and not the speaker. Will changing a head unit have any adverse affect on my current sound quality
Hey im new here and i suscribe already so hi there!!! Any advice for a nubby? I need to know to know how to wire from de stereo to the amp and then from the amp to the speaker also if it has to be only with rca? Cuz my stereo is the one that came with the car looks like it doesnt have any rca just speaker wires! Please help!
Common sense?! I am not knowledgeable about car audio in any sense. I appreciate the information and he makes even the most technologically challenged people able to understand what he’s saying. So poop on your comment!
CarAudioFabrication CarAudioFabrication well my question piggy backs on that and is one that's been asked by many and it has to do with choosing midrange/midbass in regards to the TS parameters such as qts Vas and Fs... I can figure out the rest if you can just shed some light on whether or not a typical stock door panel acts more like a sealed ported or infinite baffle... not sure if you covered this before in a video will keep searching until you reply keep up the good work thanks
The "best"? Such a subjective question. There are literally a million "components" to use... all which could be perceived as "the best" depending on your goals. My suggestion would be to focus more on the common sense items and learning how installation can improve the performance of a system rather than searching for someone to tell you what product is best.
Hi. I have a four channel MB Quart XA1-800.4 four channel amp. The power is 100 watts x 4 @ 4ohms. I've not purchased the components yet as I'm still deciding what to get and what configuration to consider. The default would be to get the MB Quart BMW components. They operate at 75watt @4ohms. My question is, how do I get away with a more powerful set like the Hertz Hi Energy which operate at 125watts? Would I need to bridge them across the 4 channels? and what would that take my amps peak power to? Would I need to set my gains according to the 125watts of the components? Many thanks.
[email protected] Holt, unless its a 60's 70's VW, Will.......you will get no sympathy from me. Try my first ride and install. '71 Gremlin. Had base am radio. I updated to a Brand new Sanyo cassette deck, with that new auto-reverse feature that was so awesome! Only had to trim a little metal on the dash.
P.S. - I've already re-upholstered my bench and seats but I'm waiting to cover the walls and doors after I decide on the right speakers. Also, I'm rebuilding my dash and eventually a newer style Steering Column will be installed for the controls.
Any assistance will be appreciated - Thank you!
I've never performed a complete entertainment system install before so I'd like to get some advice from a Professional. I need some suggestions on getting started on selecting the proper AMP, speakers, and supporting hardware.
I own a 1989 Ford E-150 Conversion Van, I've completely gutted it to install some of today's toys, I already have the Boss BVB9364RC System for my main system and some headrest monitors that I built housing's for.
I'm willing and able to do the research, purchase, fabricate/build, and install myself; however, I know there is more to it than just "Plug and play - HELP!.
Question on LOC's. Can you put two LOC's on the rear channels of a factory head unit so you can adjust subwoofer amp with subwoofer level control nob. So in total there would be three LOC's. 2 for front and rear speakers going to a 4CH amp and 1 to sub amp.
okay here's my question I have a 2006 dodge RAM 1500 crew cab and I want to install a amp for my speakers but I don't know what kind of amp to get here is the speakers that I have and I am looking to send no more then 400 on an amp but cheaper is always better. I have JL Audio C2 - 350 x in my Dash their power range is 10-40 watts RMS (75 watts peak). I have JL evolution C2 series 5.25 component speakers in the front they are Peak 200 Watts per set or 100 watts each RMS 120 per set or 60 watts each. I have JL C2 -650 6.5 component speakers and they have the same wattage and RMS as the Evolution C2 in the rear. what kind of amp should I get?
My advice would be to not spend anything on rear speakers, and spend a bit (allot) more on your front components.
Amps and subs are easy to add or change.
Just choose an awesome front system and install it the best way possible, then build and plan the rest from there.
hello c.a.f. my first step is isolation doors and after discuse about real music !! two sets hertz hi energy 16.5 pomped active with two amplifs 4×150 for midbass and 4×60 for tweeters drived by boss pioneer 80rs on front! second step is one kicker 15l5 acomplish with zx750.1 for wave bass..thanks alot from Romania ..one head bass man!!
Really enjoyed the part about tuning the gains and level matching. Another, more advanced techniques, would be to scope the gains.
I'm about to step back into the IASCA SQ game after years of being out...some of the lessons I learned the hard way are covered in a lot of CAF's videos. I really enjoy watching these...sometimes one of his tips catches me and brings up old scenarios of hard knock experiences.
Great work on these videos!
+River Alley exactly right mate, it's personal choice! I'd say personally, don't go for high quality studio monitors (speakers) as you're not going to be mixing on the road, you want the most enjoyment out of the music you listen to.
This is going to sound like a dumb question but If you run a sub at 4ohm or run It at 2ohm which will sound better, If both ways gets the same power? I guess It would be easier to say, do JL Audio Subs sound better at the higher ohms?
Like this video a lot. After many systems in the past, I kind of find myself following these steps on my own. Presently waiting for final wiring and damping materials are; Audio Control LC7i to use my stock head unit, Hertz HDP1 for a pair of Hertz HX250's, a Hertz HDP4 for 2 pairs of Hertz ESK 165s and a 2 pairs of Hertz ECX 690s..... thanks for the tips
First tier should be knowing the power your gonna need for the watts your are gonna get under a thousand or over big difference there.big three upgrade first do I need a battery or not
(2 years ago)
Planning is the best part. As soon as I actually deploy my idea and it's all perfect I already start coming up with new ideas just in time to tear everything out and start over. I think I might have an addiction...
Question for you. I'm doing an audio overhaul in my wk2, active components in the front, helix dsp, and a sub, also I have to keep my factor HU. So my question is rear door speakers...I've gotten mixed info and would like some input. I've been told they're unnecessary to keep once upgrading to the level I am, is that true or is there some value in also upgrading those as well? I'm using audiofrog speakers and an arc audio 1200.6 amp. If I do keep rear door speakers I'll have to purchase another amp to run the sub instead of bridging 5&6 on the 1200.6
This was an awesome video! There's one question that I have that the Internet has yet to answer... I'm doing some research on building a 1x15" bass guitar cabinet, and I'm trying to figure out what frequency would be best to tune to. I play a 5 string, and my lowest string (B) produces a frequency of 31Hz. Should I tune my cabinet to that frequency? Or would it be best to go lower (~25Hz), or perhaps higher to my E (41Hz)?
The frequency response of the woofer is 38-3k Hz, not sure if that would be needed.
Ideally, I would love for my woofer to produce the fundamental of my low B, but woofers that can do that, at acceptable THD, SPL, and Sensitivity, are kind of hard to come by.
Right now my setup is tier 2. 2 12" alpine type R's on an RF T1000-1bdcp, Alpine mrp-300 for the 4 alpine type s 6.5 mids. 2 1" polk audio tweets for the highs. I really like these polk tweets, and I read some good reviews on their mids. If my type s mids take a shit, I will replace them all with Polk audio.
Question please explain if you have two subs and you hook up two amps or 4 subs with 4 amps..on each amp you have left and right speaker hook ups but I see people with the same amount of subs and amps,so how do you hook each amp up to one speaker?? do you just hook up let's say to one side of the amp and oh hell how would you hook it all up and then all the amps to one head unit?
most amps have what is called bridge mode where you hook the + to one channel and the - to the other channel. thats how you hook up one speaker to a stereo amp, unless you hve a mono amp ten its just +to+ and -to-.
you can either use RCA splitters or you can use loop outs frm the amps if you have them
his point about a good install ( with less expensive equip. ) out shining a bad one ( with expensive equip. ) is a good one. I built a system for a customer that cost her ~$4500cdn in a 87 CRX. she went to an IASCA sound off and was in the same class as a guy with a similar CRX. he had spent $16000us, she beat him for 1st. place.
and charged $4500 for that ? thats alot bro, i had in 1988 4 twelve cerwin vega's installed in my 1984 cutlass supreme brougham , with a 300 watt Rockford Fosgate Punch amp with built in crossovers with 5 1/4" door speakers with tweets and a Rockford Fozgate pre amp that was bouncing lights at a slant /(cool) never could keep my hands off of that adjusting the sound, with a Sony Disk player that was just coming out at the time and it freaking bumped so clen you could talk to the passenger in a conversation while it was pushing the bass thru the backseat, literally a piece of paper i was holding was flexing in my hands to the beat. I loved it ,but on the outside it sounded like i was being electrocuted because of the body rattle in the licence plate and chrome strippings. 500 for install i brought equipment paid 800 cash fo equipment it was a good deal at the time. not knocking your job just didnt add up.
Alexander Aguasvivas try connecting thick wires between the minus of the input of your amp and the minus output of your head unit, they are already connected, but a thicker wire helps get rid of the noise
Cele mai bune oferte si promotii din catalogul Dedeman, valabile de pe 07.12.2017 pana pe 31.12.2017. Reduceri si promotii la: gresie si faianta, produse si unelte pentru gradina, acoperisuri, constructii, termice, scule de mana si electrice, … [Read more. ]
Catalog Hornbach 5 decembrie – 31 decembrie 2017.
Descoperiti cele mai bune promotii din catalogul de oferte Hornbach, valabile de pe 05.12.2017 pana pe 31.12.2017. Cele mai bune reduceri la: aparat antiinsecte cu LED, boiler electric, vopsea "Meister Polar Weiss", lazura pentru lemn, Pattfield … [Read more. ]
Catalog Praktiker 22 Noiembrie – 27 Decembrie 2017.
Nu ratati cele mai bune oferte si promotii alimentare din catalogul Praktiker, valabile de pe 22.11.2017 pana pe 27.12.2017. Cautati cele mai bune preturi la: suport umbrela, cutie frigorifica, cort Ontario, balansoar 3 locuri, bicicleta strada, … [Read more. ]
Economisiti cu cele mai recente promotii din catalogul de oferte Brico Depôt, valabile de pe 15.11.2017 pana pe 24.12.2017. Nu pierdeti cele mai bune preturi la: ventilatoare, aparate de aer conditionat, tevi si conectica cupru, radiatoare, boilere, … [Read more. ]
Catalog Hornbach 7 noiembrie – 4 decembrie 2017.
Descoperiti cele mai bune promotii din catalogul de oferte Hornbach, valabile de pe 07.11.2017 pana pe 04.12.2017. Cele mai bune reduceri la: aparat antiinsecte cu LED, boiler electric, vopsea "Meister Polar Weiss", lazura pentru lemn, Pattfield … [Read more. ]
Bricolajul a ajuns in Romania in urma cu aproximativ 10 ani, insa in Statele Unite si in statele occidentale acest concept este mai vechi, si isi are originile la inceputul anilor ’50. Bricolajul se refera la capacitatea oamenilor de a crea sau repara diverse obiecte fara a apela la ajutor specializat.
Primul catalog de bricolaj pentru renovarea locuintei a aparut in 1968. Acesta a nascut conceptul de bricolaj care sta la baza lanturilor de magazine din zilele noastre. De la covoare si perdele, pana la mobilier si prefabricate, bricolajul se refera la tot ce inseamna renovarea unei locuinte in aceasta acceptiune.
Pe orlo.ro gasesti toate cataloagele de bricolaj, de la cei mai importanti comercianti. Catalog Dedeman, Catalog Praktiker, Catalog Baumax, Catalog Bricostore, Catalog Ambient si altii.
In Romania retelele de magazine pentru bricolaj sau extins rapid, cel mai important comerciant din acest segment este Dedeman, care a pornit din orasul Bacau si a ajuns sa detina magazine in cele mai importante orase din tara.